Mittellegi ridge

Tours & Approaches

Approach Eismeer


Current information 4 July 2023

On 22 June 2023, a rockfall occurred on the south side of the Eiger, near Eismeer Station. Access to the Mittellegihütte is possible.

It is recommended to abseil about 20 metres directly onto the glacier at the tunnel exit. A belaystation with two static ropes (for abseiling and for a possible return) is set up. Then descend about 200 metres and cross the deposit.

Alternative: Access via Ostegg

Zustieg 1

Zustieg 2

General Information

Take the Jungfrau Railway to the Eismeer station and walk through the tunnel to the Challifirn. On this impressive glacier you cross over to the rocks. The entrance to the rocks is in the fall line of the Grosser Turm. Here you climb up two pitches (equipped with bolts) in the 4th degree of difficulty and cross over scree bands to the hut.

Depending on the conditions, it is sometimes better to traverse on the Challifirn to the rock spur below the hut and climb up over it (poles).

Time 1h 30 to 2h from Eismeer station.

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Approach via Ostegg hut

Ascent Ostegg hut

After the train ride to Alpiglen station, hike along the "Eiger Trail" hiking trail. At the signpost "Ostegg", walk under a rocky ledge and then climb up a grassy ramp. Once on the prominent grassy saddle, you cross a scree slope and reach the rocks where you find the entrance to the via ferrata (difficulty level K3). After overcoming this, you reach the beautifully situated Ostegghütte.

Time required from Alpiglen: 2 - 3 hours.

The hut trail is quite exposed and is only suitable for alpinists. There are two climbing sections (pitons).

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From the Ostegg hut to the Mitellegi hut

Early in the morning you climb over scree and rocky ledges to Ostegg. The varied ridge is very impressive, at one point you even have to squeeze through a rock hole to get to the other side. The three difficult pitches are challenging in the upper part of the ridge. The climbing sections are in the upper 5th degree of difficulty. But soon you can see the Mittellegi hut further up. The small hut on the narrow ridge is impressively situated, the sunsets could not be more romantic.

Time required: 7 - 8 hours

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Eiger 3967m over the Mittellegi ridge

We set off early in the morning. The first part is done in the light of the headlamp. As soon as the climbing begins, it slowly gets light. The ridge is incredibly impressive. The view of the north face and Grindelwald makes every climber's heart beat faster. You soon reach summit height via the fixed ropes on the big gendarme. The last metres are climbed over the razor-sharp firn ridge. The view is indescribable. The Eiger is and remains a myth. But the descent must not be forgotten, after all, it is only half-time at the summit. First you descend to the northern Eigerjoch, then continue in magnificent climbing over the connecting ridge to the southern Eigerjoch. From here, the Mönch is circumnavigated on the south side to the Mönchsjoch. The tour finally ends on the Jungfraujoch.

SAC tour portal

Descent via the Eigerjöcher

From the northern to the southern Eigerjoch to the Mönchsjochhütte and the Jungfraujoch.

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Book your Eiger tour

Outdoor / Grindelwaldsports is the local mountain guide office. Book your tour over the Eiger via phone +41 33 224 07 01 or mail info@outdoor.ch.

Further information Eiger via Mittellegigrat

Further Information Eiger via Ostegg

Experience report

Read Fränzi Schiesser's Blog about her experience on the Eiger.